A new Greenpeace study released on Monday has revealed traces of water-polluting substances in the apparel products of several luxury brands - including Versace, Louis Vuitton and Dolce & Gabbana - particularly those made for children.
In a test conducted by Greenpeace Research Laboratories, 27 samples of clothes and shoes were bought from Dior, Dolce & Gabbana, Giorgio Armani, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Trussardi and Versace.
The environmental campaign group said that 16 out of the 27 products from these brands were found containing toxic substances, including nonylphenol ethoxylates (NPEs). The highest concentration of NPEs was detected in a Louis Vuitton branded ballerina shoe.
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Designer brands are known for their exclusivity and quality, yet they have not lived up to their reputation as fashion trendsetters
Greenpeace campaigner Chiara Campione
NPEs are widely used as surfactant or organic compounds used as agents in detergents and other cleaning agents, as well as in the mass production of garments. These compounds have been found to be highly toxic for aquatic organisms as it does not degrade easily while in the water systems. These chemicals have also been reportedly banned in detergents in the European Union and Canada.
The United States Environmental Protection Agency has done assessments on NPEs and has found that there are other safer alternatives that industries could use, particularly by the manufacturing sector.
The report is part of the environment group’s ongoing ‘Detox’ campaign, which calls for a commitment from major brands and their suppliers to eliminate toxic chemicals in their manufacturing processes. Greenpeace aims to achieve a zero discharge level of all hazardous chemicals in the textile industry by 2020, which means no more liquid waste containing toxins should be discharged in all pathways leading to sewer systems and surface water, from the supply chain of the products.
Chiara Campione, Fashion Duel project leader with Greenpeace Italy, noted that designer brands are known for their exclusivity and quality, yet they have not lived up to their reputation as fashion trendsetters. “These brands need to ‘Detox’ their supply chains and realise that people can see through their grand illusion,” said Campione.
Other chemicals found in the clothes were phthalates, commonly used as softeners in plastics and PVC products; per- or polyfluorinated chemicals (PFCs) used to make water-repellent fabrics; and antimony used in making synthetic fibres.
According to Greenpeace, products that were labeled ‘Made in Italy’ also showed traces of these hazardous chemicals, while the highest concentration of PFCs was found in a Versace jacket.
Some of these chemicals are known to have hormone-disrupting properties, the campaign group said.
Campione urged the eight brands to join the toxic-free fashion revolution and follow the footsteps of other luxury brands such as Valentino and Burberry, which have already made the commitment to detoxify their supply chains.
In a similar report last month, Greenpeace also found traces of these toxins in many of the children’s textile products from companies such as American Apparel, C&A, Disney, GAP, H&M, Primark, and Uniqlo; sportswear brands, such as adidas, LiNing, Nike, and Puma; and the luxury brand Burberry.
After the report, most of these companies have joined the ‘Detox’ campaign, adding to the growing list of Greenpeace’s partners who are tackling environmental issues in the fashion industry.
